Shirt



Sept. 27, 1938. R, E LA UE 2,131,055

SHIRT Filed April 8, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. Ralph E. Ladae,

BIS ATTORNEYS Sept. 27, 1938. R. E. LAD UE 2,131,055

' v SHIRT Filed April 8; 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VENT OR. 104ml: Ladue,

ATTORNEYS Patented Sept. 27, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT. OFFICE snm'r Delaware Application April 8, 1937, Serial No. 135,636

5 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in shirts and has particular reference to improve- I ments in the sleeve structure thereof.

At the present time it is necessary for stores to stock shirts of various sleeve lengths for each size, which not only represents a large inventory and investment, but requires an enormous amount of additional space. Also, the lengths of the sleeve are not always uniform as to indicated lengths, owing to difierence in cut, abnormally wide or narrow shoulder width of the wearer, and the like.

In accordance with the present invention, a

shirt is provided in which the cuff is furnished separately for permanent attachment to theend of the sleeve after the latter has been trimmed to the proper length to provide the over-all sleeve length desired or required by the purchaser, the sleeve of the shirt as manufactured being of a maximum length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade. The various standard sleeve lengths are indicated on the elongated sleeve or the sleeve is measured in accordance with the measurement of the wearer, and then trimmed accordingly. The cuff is permanently attached by a suitable launderproof adhesive or cement, or is otherwise permanently attached in the store by a very simple operation.

It will be seen that with the present invention,

only one size shirt is provided in each neck-band size and style and the sleeve length is conformed to fit the wearer, whether his arms are abnormally long or short or whether or not he requires half-sizes, the cuff being attached to the sleeve in the store in a few minutes. This not only means a better fit for the wearer and no difficulty in locating special sleeve lengths, but also results in a saving of manufacturing and inventory costs, and material reduction of the stocking space.

For a more complete understanding of the invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 illustrates the cuff and sleeve arrangement before permanent association according to the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a cross-section therethrough as seen along the line 2-2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 illustrates the finished sleeve;

Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate in perspective a preferred arrangement for attaching the cuif and sleeve, these figures showing the parts before and after attachment, respectively;

Fig. 6 illustrates in perspective a French style culf attached to the sleeve in a different way; and

Figs. 7 and 8 illustrate the method of attachment of the arrangement of Fig. 6, these figures showing the parts before and after attachment, respectively.

Referring to Fig. 1 of the drawings, numeral Ill designates the sleeve of a shirt which is com structed in the usual Way except that the sleeve is not provided with a culf and is of a length equal to the maximum sleeve length less the effective width of the cuff.- The inside surface of the sleeve it is printed or otherwise marked with dimension lines ll spaced inch apart and with dicate the length of the cuiiless sleeve, but rather,

indicate the finished over-all length of the sleeve after the cuff has been attached thereto. The sleeve measurement is made from a predetermined point on the body of the shirt and this point customarily is at the center of the top of the shirt back, i. e., the middle of the base of the collar or approximate rear collar button position. Accordingly, the sleeve length is the distance from this point to the end of the sleeve, which is the outer edge of the cuff. Thus, to accommodate the usual trade requirement for a maximum sleeve length of thirty-seven inches, a shirt is provided according to this invention inwhich the actual distance from the center of the shirt back at the base of the collar to the thirty-seven inch mark on the sleeve is thirty-seven inches less the effective width of the cuff, i. e., the total width of the cuff minus the overlap between the inner edge of the cuff and the extremity of the sleeve. These dimension marks ll may be A, or inch apart, depending upon requirements, and are printed in ink which disappears on first washing of the shirt; Numerals I 2 are similarly of an ink which is not fast.

The culf l3, which maybe either round or French, is preferably constructed at its upper edge as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2, that is, the upper edges of the two layers of the cuff material are turned inwardly and stitched together and to the corresponding layers at M so that the upper edge of the cuff is provided with a slot'l5 that is generally V-shaped. The lower edge ii of the cuff is formed in the usual way and the cuff may be provided with stiffening material or not, as required. As shown, particularly in Fig. 1, the lateral edges of the cuff l3 are stitched at I! so that slot I5 is closed at its ends, forming a pocket. The width of the cuff I3 is 5 inch to inchgreater than the width of the sleeve Ill.

so that the end of the sleeve may be readily inserted within the slot or pocket l5.

In the preferred arrangement for permanently fastening the cuffs to the trimmed ends of the sleeves, the inner sides of the slot [5 of the cuff ID are evenly coated with a thin film of suitable thermoplastic cement which, when set, is not susceptible to deterioration by water, soaps, and other cleaning compounds, or to oxidation such that it loses its flexibility and adhesion. Merely by way of example, the thermoplastic coating I8 may comprise cellulose-acetate, or nitrate, and a compatible thermoplastic resin or the like, such" as a vinyl resin or other synthetic resin or other."

plasticizer.

Instead of applying the adhesive or adhering material or cement directly to the inner surfaces of the slot or pocket if) of the cuff l3, the cuff may be constructed as illustrated in Figsfli and 5, in which the upper edges of the outer fabric layersof'the cuifare turned inwardly at is and there is stitched to each of them an adhesive acetate, ethyl-, methyl-, or benzyl-acetate,,nitrocellulose, orother ester of cellulose or mixture thereof, having deposited thereon a suitable nonvolatile plasticizer, which upon application of heatand pressure softens the cellulose fiber so that it fuses and adheres to the joining fabric surfaces and threads.

, In both forms of the invention illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, or 4, the end 2! of the sleeve Ill is inserted within the pocket l5 and the proper degree of heat and pressure applied to the joint so that the cementitious material H3 or 2D softens and fuses to and between the meshes of the side wallsof the slot N3 of the cuff l3 and the sleeve If), uniting the sleeve to the cuff with a permanent and secure bond which is launderproof and not broken down or deteriorated by repeated washings, oxidation, or contact with any of the ordinary washing or cleaning fluids or the like to which a shirt is subjected in ordinary use. The cementing agent is so selected that the joint is flexible and remains flexible so that it preferably does not materially increase the stiffness of the cufi when starch or other stiffening material or processes are employed.

Inasmuch as the greatest strain on the joint occurs at the upper corner of the cuff, the stitching ll is preferably carried to its upper edge, as shown in Fig. 1, so that any strain on the upper corner of the cuff is applied to the stitched joint ratherthan to the cemented joint, although for ordinary use the cemented joint has been found to be sufliciently strong, andunless the additional precaution is deemed necessary, theslot I5 need not be pocket-shaped, i. e;, stitching i! need not be carried beyond the bottom of the pocket or slot 15 and the cuff l3 may-be made the same width asthe sleeve Ii).

Where evengreater strength is required at the upper corner of the cuff the cuff may be cemented to the sleeve, as described, and metallic self-locking fasteners 22, such as are illustrated in Figs. 6, 7 and 8 may be employed. These fasteners 2-2 are formed of pliable non-oxidizing or noncorrosive metal, which is proof against deterioration byjthe usual laundering fluids and compounds, and. comprises a male portion23 having two prongs 24 which are adapted to be engaged and spread by the center portion 25 of the female fastening element 26 so that as the parts 23 and 2B are forced together the prongs 24 are spread apart by 25 and forced laterally into the curved portions 21 of part 26 so that they become locked therein as indicated in Fig. 8 when the fastener 22 is completely closed.

These fasteners 22 are preferably so constructed and of such a size as to be inconspicuous and have no projecting corners or edges upon with cuifdetached and theprospective weareris, either measured to determine the proper sleeve;

length or indicates the desired sleeve'length in inches and fractions thereof. In the store the sleeve i6 is trimmed along the proper selected.

dimension line H and the end 2| of thetrimmed sleeve is inserted in the slot of the cuff 13, which is then permanently secured to the sleeve by the application of heat and pressurein the;

manner described, or by other permanent fasten-- ing means, so that the cuff becomes an integral, part of the sleeve, remaining permanently attached thereto. Other fastening means, such as stitching, may be provided but the methods described have been found satisfactory inasmuch; as

the application of the cuif to the sleeve requires merely the use of a hot iron or specially pro-;

vided heating tool, whereby the proper degree of heat and pressure may be applied to the parts-in the manner described to secure the permanent attachment. n

Accordingly with the arrangement of the present invention, the manufacturer provides only one neckband size shirt in each style with the corresponding cuffs, whereby manufacturing and inventory costs and stocking space, with its at-.

tendant costs, are saved and the wearer is pr0 vided with a perfect fit in so far as sleeve length is concerned, even to fractions of inches.

Also if desired, each shirtmay be provided with eitherdetached round or French cuffs, as;

illustrated in Figs. 3 and 6, or with both, so that the wearer may select as between the two, thus effecting another saving in cost and stock of shirts with both kinds of cuff.

,While certain preferred embodiments of the invention have beenillustrated and describedherein, it is-to be understood that the invention.

is not limited thereby but is susceptible of variations of form and detail within the-scope of'the appended claims. hesives softenable by heat, solvents or the like, or other permanent fastening means and methods may be employed, so long as the cuff, once remains an integral part of the sleeve,

I claim: I

l. The method of manufacturing shirts, which comprises first forming a completed shirt but devoid of cuffs and having the sleev'esthereof per-- manently attached at the shoulder end to the bodyof the shirt and formed of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, separately form- Thus other cements or adb attached to the trimmed sleeve, permanently ing completed cuffs of a predetermined width for the sleeves, subsequently trimming the sleeves at the cuff end at a point measured from a predetermined point on the shirt body and corresponding to the finished sleeve length less the effective width of the cuffs, and. then permanently attaching the preformed cuffs to the ends of the sleeves so trimmed to produce a shirt having sleeves of predetermined over-all length.

2. The method of manufacturing shirts, which comprises first forming a completed shirt but devoid of cuffs and having the sleeves thereof permanently attached at the shoulders and formed of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, providing spaced dimension markings on the ends of the sleeves equal to a finished sleeve length less the effective width of the cuiT and indicating the various sleeve length dimensions according to the requirements of the trade, separately forming cuffs for the sleeves, trimming the sleeves at a selected marking thereon corresponding to the predetermined sleeve length for the wearer, and then permanently attaching the said cuffs tothe ends of the sleeves so trimmed to produce sleeves corresponding in over-all length to that indicated by the selected marking.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a completed shirt ready for sale and having sleeves permanently attached at the shoulders but devoid of cuffs and of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, and a pair of separate, preformed cuffs of predetermined effective width for permanent attachment to the ends of the said sleeves after the latter have been trimmed to conform V to the predetermined sleeve length of the wearer.

4. As a new article of manufacture, a completed shirt ready for sale but devoid of cuffs and having sleeves of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, said sleeves having transverse dimension marks spaced from the ends thereof and indicating the location where the sleeve is to be trimmed to form the standard sleeve length desired, and a pair of separate, completed cuffs of predetermined efiective width adapted to be permanently secured to the ends of the said sleeves after the latter have been trimmed ofi transversely at one of said marks corresponding to the predetermined sleeve length desired to produce completed sleeves corresponding in over-all length to the-standard sleeve length indicated by the mark at which the sleeves were trimmed.

5. As a new article of manufacture, a completed shirt having sleeves permanently attached at theshoulders thereof but devoid of cuffs and of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, a pair of separate completed pre-formed cufis of a predetermined effective width, and means on said cuifs for permanently attaching the said cufis to the ends of the corresponding sleeves after the latter have been trimmed to conform to the predetermined sleeve-length of the wearer.

RALPH E. LADUE'. 

